Kill Ya Fresh!

Sometime back in March this year, I sent my car for its annual wax and polish session after the car was serviced. This year, I tried it at a car wash shop/spa which is very near my house. I had sent my car to this shop for it to be washed for almost a year. This wasn't a new place that I was trying out.

They recommended that I have my car air conditioner washed with this Klima Fresh as it kills mold, fungus and mildew. It also get rids of odour from the air conditioner coils. The car would be fresh! I questioned them on whether it is perfumed and they said no. I then agreed to try it out.

Worst decision ever!

Because I was bested by a horrific allergy-migraine, my judgement was impaired. The voice that was screaming NO inside my gut was drowned out by the pain in my head.

My heart sank the moment I got my car and turned on the air conditioner. The fake lemon-ey smell and chemical fumes were awful beyond words.

I called the usual guy at my car service centre and asked him about getting the air conditioner coils washed to clean out the smell and chemical. He said I would need to leave the car at the workshop for 3 days! They would need to remove the whole air conditioner coil and soak it in a solution!

I needed my car everyday! Thus, I resorted to a few tricks which I hoped would work.

Every morning and evening I would let the engine run with all the doors opened. I would switch off the air conditioner button and let the outside air in through the vents. I also set the temp to maximum. I did this for about 45 minutes for each morning and evening session.

The chemical still lingered.

I wore masks every time I entered the car. I wound down all the car windows and let the outside air in as I drove.

I placed green tea bags in containers inside the car!

I even changed my old car air purifier to Medklin as this model removes smell.

NOTHING WORKED!

And then one day, I parked the car under the hot sun by chance as there were no parking spots in the shaded area. This was during the time of the heat wave. I realised that the chemical smell had lessened!!!!!!!! I then parked it under the hot sun for a few more days. I left the windows slightly opened too!

I could kiss the sun as the god awful heat did the trick.

I learned my lesson. Never ever not listen to the gut feeling even when I am dying from pain. Never ever listen to people when they say that there is no smell.

What are Klima Fresh's ingredients you ask? Halogenated hydrocarbons, ethanol, benzyl alchohol, LINALOOL and d-LIMONE!!!!

The Biggest Mistake Ever!

It's almost one year since we moved to our new place. Time just flew by.

We got a HE inverter front loading washing machine as it saves water electricity and detergent. Since it uses so little water, it needs to be 'washed' every month. Soap scum tend to get clogged much easier for the HE machine. I have never owned a HE front loader prior to this.

The HE front loading washer.

Recently, the laundry started to smell not-so-fresh and they didn't look clean after coming out of the washer. Many times, they had a stale smell.

The machine needed to be washed. I have not washed it for one year.

How to wash?

I went to a hardware shop nearby my place and was recommended this.

This was to be poured into the drum directly and washed in the highest temperature.

Worst. Mistake. Ever.

My whole house smelt as though it got 'nuclear bombed' AND 'atom bombed' AND 'torpedoed' by artificial fragrance. I choked and started tearing. Joel who has never been affected by smell said that both his ears and neck felt like they were breaking out in hives. He started itching.

We opened all the windows and switched on all the fans in full blast.

The smell left the house but the laundry room was a disaster. It smelt like a chemical perfume factory. I wanted to cry. My laundry room is just next to the kitchen. And I spend almost all my time in the kitchen. By the end of the day, the smell would permeate the whole house again.

My mouth started to burn. I started to feel ill. I swallowed two Piritons that day to be on the safe side.

Every load of laundry after that smelt of that horrible toxic fragrance smell.

I tried baking soda.

It didn't eradicate the smell.

I couldn't wear my clothes as they were saturated with the chemical perfume smell. It made me very ill.

WHAT TO DO????

And then the voice in my head said, "Vinegar".

I bought this from the hardware store:

Of course I had reservations regarding vinegar as vinegar has always been my worst enemy. Highest in salicylates.

Shockingly, this vinegar wasn't pungent. And I wasn't sickened at all by the smell. I had no reaction.

I poured 400ml into the washer and set it to the highest temperature. And I did this three times.

Hallelujah.

All hail Lord Vinegar. Praises be heaped upon Lord Vinegar.

The toxic fragrance smell was gone.

I then washed my clothes with the vinegar in the highest temperature. The sickening fragrance smell was gone!!! I then washed my clothes in my usual fragrant-free detergent. They all smelt normal again.

What a great relief!

This was a pricey lesson as the Tide machine washer cost RM60+ per box. I cannot exchange it as I've used one sachet. Hmmmmm.... I wonder who would want it. Hehe.....

For future washings for the machine, vinegar will be used as the tub is now so clean and fresh. And the clothes look bright and clean again. Smells great too.

Thank god for Lord Vinegar! Long live Lord Vinegar!

Unsanitary Sanitary Issues - Part 2

The Materials & Ingredients Used in Commercially Made Sanitary Pads

1. Wood Pulp Fibers

Fluff pulp is the common name for wood pulp fibers which are used in the absorbent core of sanitary pads and even diapers.

Fluff pulp is a chemical pulp which is most of the time made of bleached cellulose fiber obtained from wood which has long fibers.

* Chemical pulp is created by a method that uses chemicals and heat to convert wood into pulp. This process can be, and generally is, used as an alternative to mechanical pulping, which involves obtaining wood fibers by way of a grinding process.

There are two widely recognized processes for producing chemical pulp. One is known as sulfate pulping. The other is known as sulfite pulping. The major differences between these are the chemicals used, the quality of paper produced, and the economy of chemical recovery.

Sulfate pulping is a process that was developed in Germany in 1879. It is sometimes called kraft pulping because kraft means strength in German, and the paper produced with this chemical pulp is strong. It can be used to make paper bags, writing paper, or diapers. Chemicals are typically always recovered in this process.

click here to read more on chemical pulp

Fluff pulp is also known as fluffy pulp, comminution pulp, and fluffing, this pulp is made from trees classified as softwood, which means they belong to the conifer family, such as pines. Fluff pulp is produced worldwide in huge amounts. Some estimates put annual production in the range of 3.5 million tonnes. It is available in a large variety of grades and is used to create a large array of personal hygiene products.

click here to read more on fluff pulp

2. Rayon

*** Regular rayon (or viscose) is the most widely produced form of rayon. This method of rayon production has been utilized since the early 1900s and it has the ability to produce either filament or staple fibers. The process is as follows:

1. Cellulose: Production begins with processed cellulose
2. Immersion: The cellulose is dissolved in caustic soda: (C₆H₁₀O₅)_n + nNaOH → (C₆H₉O₄ONa)_n + nH₂O
3. Pressing: The solution is then pressed between rollers to remove excess liquid
4. White Crumb: The pressed sheets are crumbled or shredded to produce what is known as "white crumb"
5. Aging: The "white crumb" aged through exposure to oxygen
6. Xanthation: The aged "white crumb" is mixed with carbon disulfide in a process known as Xanthation, the aged alkali cellulose crumbs are placed in vats and are allowed to react with carbon disulfide under controlled temperature (20 to 30 °C) to form cellulose xanthate: (C₆H₉O₄ONa)_n + nCS₂ → (C₆H₉O₄O-SC-SNa)_n
7. Yellow Crumb: Xanthation changes the chemical makeup of the cellulose mixture and the resulting product is now called "yellow crumb"
8. Viscose: The "yellow crumb" is dissolved in a caustic solution to form viscose
9. Ripening: The viscose is set to stand for a period of time, allowing it to ripen: (C₆H₉O₄O-SC-SNa)_n + nH₂O → (C₆H₁₀O₅)_n + nCS₂ + nNaOH
10. Filtering: After ripening, the viscose is filtered to remove any undissolved particles
11. Degassing: Any bubbles of air are pressed from the viscose in a degassing process
12. Extruding: The viscose solution is extruded through a spinneret, which resembles a shower head with many small holes
13. Acid Bath: As the viscose exits the spinneret, it lands in a bath of sulfuric acid, resulting in the formation of rayon filaments: (C₆H₉O₄O-SC-SNa)_n + ½nH₂SO₄ → (C₆H₁₀O₅)_n + nCS₂ + ½nNa₂SO₄
14. Drawing: The rayon filaments are stretched, known as drawing, to straighten out the fibers
15. Washing: The fibers are then washed to remove any residual chemicals
16. Cutting: If filament fibers are desired the process ends here. The filaments are cut down when producing staple fibers

***taken from Wiki Rayon

3. Polysorbate-20

*** Polysorbate-20 is fragrance component, a surfactant, an emulsifying agent, and a solubilizing agent.  

Polysorbate starts out as harmless sorbitol, but then it's treated with carcinogenic ethylene oxide.  It's called Polysorbate 20 because it's treated with 20 "parts" of ethylene oxide.  The higher the number, the more ethylene oxide it has been treated with.  This substance is then combined with various fatty acids.  The Skin Deep Database rates it as only a "one," and doesn't pick up on the risk that it could be contaminated with ethylene oxide, and subsequently, 1,4 dioxane.  In addition, it can be laced with heavy metals.

***taken from Chemical of the Day

4. Urea Formaldehyde

Urea formaldehyde (UF) is a cost-effective thermosetting resin that is widely used in the wood product industry. These resins cure easily and are scratch resistant. They are mainly used in the manufacture of pressed wood products.

Formaldehyde is a confirmed carcinogen. It means that it is a cancer causing agent.

click here to read more on Urea Formaldehyde

click here to read on Formaldehyde and Chemical Sensitivity

5. Sodium Polyacrylate

Sodium polyacrylate, also known as waterlock, is a polymer with the chemical formula [-CH₂-CH(COONa)-]_n. It is widely used in consumer products. It has the ability to absorb as much as 200 to 300 times its mass in water. 

Acrylate polymers generally are considered to possess an anionic charge. While sodium neutralized polyacrylates are the most common form used in industry, there are also other salts available including potassium, lithium and ammonium.

This is also used in baby diapers.

click here to read more on The Use & Effects of Dioxin and Polyacrylate

6. Polypropylene

Polypropylene (PP), also known as polypropene, is a thermoplastic polymer used in a wide variety of applications including packaging and labeling, textiles (e.g., ropes, thermal underwear and carpets), stationery, plastic parts and reusable containers of various types, laboratory equipment, loudspeakers, automotive components, and polymer banknotes. An addition polymer made from the monomer propylene, it is rugged and unusually resistant to many chemical solvents, bases and acids.

In 2008, the global market for polypropylene had a volume of 45.1 million tonnes, which led to a turnover of about $65 billion (~ €47.4 billion).

Polypropylene is a major polymer used in non-wovens, with over 50% used for diapers or sanitary products where it is treated to absorb water (hydrophilic) rather than naturally repelling water (hydrophobic).

click here to read more on Polypropylene

7. Bleach

In order to promote the whiter-than-white, sterile image disposable feminine hygiene products are heavily bleached and treated. Elemental chlorine gas has been a common bleaching agent. This is a source of dioxin, a known human carcinogen. Dioxin is 70,000 times more lethal than arsenic and next to plutonium the most toxic substance known to humans. 

Since an environmental campaign in Great Britain persuaded UK manufacturers to change the bleaching method many now use either chlorine dioxide or hydrogen peroxide.

click here to read more on Dioxin and Its Effects

8. Fragrance or Deodorant

This is an invention whereby a sanitary napkin has an adhesive with perfume carrying release agents. Preferably the release agents are microcapsules that release perfume upon removal of a release liner from the adhesive, and/or during the user's wear of the sanitary napkin, and/or upon the removal of the sanitary napkin from the user's undergarment. The perfume releases are either as fragrance bursts, diffusion or both.

click here to read more on Contact Dermatitis of the Vulva

*** Women with excessive vaginal secretions often use self adhesive pads for comfort and hygiene. A fragrance and disinfecting agent are commonly incorporated into the pad and both may produce contact dermatitis. Sterry and Schmoll reported the case of a woman with genital pruritis who had been using self adhesive pads for several months. Patch testing was positive to the layer of the pad which contained the fragrance and the disinfecting agent (CuII-acetyl acetonate and acetyl acetonate). A similar case has also been described of sensitivity to cinnamic alcohol and cinnamic aldehyde present as a perfume in a deodorant sanitary napkin.

***taken from here


Here are some interesting articles concerning the world of sanitary pads:

Chemicals in Sanitary Pads

Chlorine Bleaching and Dioxin

A Research on Dioxin

Chemicals in Sanitary Napkins

Menstrual Products Go Green


... to be continued

To Scent or Not To Scent (Part 4) - Perfume Hypersensitivity

Perfume has been used since the ancient of days. Many people are perplexed to why the big fuss over the use of perfumes and fragrances today. Many are outraged and ask, 'What is wrong in trying to smell good?'

During the ancient days, only 100% extract of plants and animals were used. No synthetics, no chemicals. 100% original. It is a different story today. Due to high cost, animal and plants being on the verge of extinction (because of the huge amount needed to FEED the mass market of perfume/fragrances), synthetic chemicals are needed to continually boost the perfume market. 

Perfume Hypersensitivity or 'Allergies'

Many people today have developed a hypersensitivity, an 'intolerance' or an 'allergy' to 'smells'. Particularly to perfume. And to these people, it never crossed their mind that their perfume/fragrance could be the one that is triggering their 'allergy' reactions. And sad to say, some are too addicted to their perfumes to give them up. And continue to live in denial and in sickness!

In order to prolong the shelf life of perfumes, preservatives are added to extend their shelf life. And many times, these preservatives are the culprits of perfume 'allergies'. 

Some 'allergy' reactions are even caused by the natural products that are in the perfumes!

Common 'Allergy' Causing Chemicals in Perfumes

1. Amylcinnamic Alcohol

This is very extensively used in women's perfume. It produces a jasmine-like 'floral-ness' when accompanied by more volatile chemicals of floral character. Assists in fixation for perfumes. It is known as a human immune system toxicant. It can cause contact dermatitis.

It is also known as:
* 1-heptanol, 2-(phenylmethylene)
* 2-amyl-3-phenyl-2-propen-l-ol
* 2-(phenylmethylene)-l-Heptanol 
* 2-benzylideneheptan-1-ol 
* 2-benzyliidene-1-heptanol 
* 2-pentyl-3-phenylprop-2-en-1-ol

* Alpha-amylcinnamic alcohol 
* Alpha-amylcinnamyl alcohol 
* Alpha pentyl cinnamyl alcohol 
* Amylcinnamic alcohol 
* Amylcinnamyl alcohol
* Buxinol 


2. Anisyl Alcohol


This is used in perfumery and it has a hawthorn ordour. It adds volume and also gives a natural aspect to floral compositions such as mimosa, lilac, cassia, apple-blossom, jasmine and heliotrope as well as to clover and fougere perfumes. 


It is also found in acid cleaners, fabric conditioners, antiperspirant, toiletries, fabric detergent liquid, soap, powder detergent and liquid bleach.


It is filed as a non-food allergy which can cause nausea, headache, breathing difficulty, hoarse voice, loss of voice, tingling lips, muscle pain, joint pain and etc. Some react in an anaphylactic reaction, some get asthma, abdominal pain, eczema or headaches. (click here)


3. Benzyl Alcohol


This is used as a solvent and preservative in perfumes. Benzyl Alcohol has been associated with contact allergy. When tests were conducted on lab rats, DNA damage was recorded. For more information click here.


4. Benzyl Salicylate


Since I am salicylate sensitive, I am going to highlight this in red. This is used as a solvent for synthetic musks as a fixative in floral perfumes such as jasmine, lilac and lily. There has been evidence that people can become sensitized to this material, thus has been given a Restriction Standard by the International Fragrance Association.

5. Cinnamic Alcohol

This has a distinctive ordour which is described as sweet, balsam, hyacinth, spicy, green, powdery and cinnamic. This is used in perfumery and in deodorants too.

Cinnamic alcohol has been found to have a sensitizing effect on some people and thus has been given a Restricted Standard by the Internal Fragrance Association.

6. Cinnamic Aldehyde

Cinnamic Aldehyde is a skin irritant. This is also used as a flavoring agent. For more information click here.

7. Coumarin

Coumarin has a distinctively sweet ordour which reminds people of freshly cut grass or hay. This has been used in perfumes since the late 1800s. For more information of Coumarin, click here.

Research shows that it could cause cancer. And it can trigger contact dermatitis. To read more about the side-effects of coumarin, click here.

8. Eugenol

Eugenol is used in perfumeries, flavorings, essential oils and in medicines as a local antiseptic and anesthetic.

Eugenol is hepatotoxic, which means it can cause damage to the liver. Kouros Eau de Toilette by Yves Saint Laurent contains Eugenol. People who have sensitivity to Eugenol should avoid this fragrance. Eugenol can cause contact dermatitis.

Click here for more information.

9. Geraniol

Geraniol is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol. It is the primary part of rose oil, palmarosa oil, and certain types of citronella oil. Geraniol also occurs in small quantities in geranium, lemon, and many other essential oils. It has a rose-like ordour.

For a detailed information on Geraniol, click here.

Geraniol can be found in facial moisturizer or facial treatment, hair colouring and bleaching, moisturizers, women's fragrance and anti-agine products.

People should avoid Geraniol if they have perfume allergy.

10. Hydroxycitronellal

This is a perfume ingredient with a medium strength floral scent which smells like lilly and sweet tropical melon. The two main components in Hydroxycitionellal are Citral and Geraniol.

It has been noted that Hydroxycitronellal above 5% concentration caused facial psoriasis and it is a documented irritant.

For more on Hydroxycitronellal click here.

11. Isoeugenol

Click here for the chemical make-up of Isoeugenol.

Isoeugenol is a substitute phenol.

It is known to cause contact dermatitis.

This is a very interesting link on the study that has been done on Isoeugenol.

12. Musk Ambrette


* Musk ambrette (2,6-dinitro-3-methoxy-4-tert-butyltoluene), a nitro-musk compound widely used as a fixative in fragrance formulations and found to a lesser degree in flavor compositions, produces hindlimb weakness when administered in the diet or applied to skin of rats for periods up to 12 weeks. Underlying neuropathologic changes consist of primary demyelination and distal axonal degeneration in selected regions of the central and peripheral nervous system. Murine neurological disease induced by musk ambrette occurs at doses well above estimated maximum daily human exposure. Lifetime experimental neurotoxicology studies using lower concentrations of musk ambrette for prolonged periods would be needed for the estimation of human risk.

* taken from neurotoxic properties of musk ambrette

Read contact and photocontact allergy to musk ambrette.

Apparently, this has been discontinued in the industry of perfumery. It is a banned product.

13. Sandalwood Oil

Read here for Sandalwood oil non-food allergy reaction.

Though Sandalwood oil is mild, it can cause severe allergy reaction when applied undiluted.

14. Wood Tars

* In a population of 1883 patients tested for allergic contact dermatitis (1985-1988), a prevalence of 5.4% (103 cases) was seen for wood tars (ICDRG allergen, 12% pet.) sensitization. In this group (n = 103), retrospectively, a combined allergy was seen to wood tars and fragrance mix in 43% and to wood tars and balsam of Peru in 31%. A combined allergy to wood tars and coal tar was seen in 19 patients (18.5%): 14 to liquor carbonis detergens (LCD), 8 to lianthral and 3 to both LCD and lianthral. Within the group with wood tars allergy (n = 103), a minority (n = 37) had a history of atopic dermatitis. Comparison of the test results in atopic and non-atopic subgroups (within the group of 103) revealed a higher incidence of combined wood tars-fragrance mix allergy in the atopic group (n = 37). In this group, a lower incidence of combined wood tars-coal tar sensitization was seen in comparison with the non-atopic group (n = 66). The authors believe that combined "wood tars-coal tar" allergy could be the consequence of cross-sensitization rather than due to long-term previous topical treatment with tar derivatives. The high % of cross-allergy between wood tars and fragrance mix emphasizes the role of wood tars as an important indicator allergen in perfume allergy.

* taken from wood tars allergy, cross-sensitization and coal tar

To Scent or Not To Scent (Part 3)

The Trinity of Perfume

In perfumery, notes are used to describe the scents that are sensed upon application. And here are the three types of notes.

They are the top notes (also known as head notes), the middle notes (heart) and the base notes.

Top Notes

The top notes are perceived immediately upon application of a perfume. These top notes consist of small and light molecules that evaporate very fast. Scents belonging to this group are described as 'fresh', 'assertive' or 'sharp'. It is the top notes that will capture the intended buyer's attention.

Commonly used scents in this group are ginger and citrus scents.

Middle Notes

The middle notes emerge when the top notes dissipate. The middle notes form the body of the perfume. Their role is to mask the often unpleasant initial impression of the base notes, which will become more pleasant as time passes by. The middle notes can kick into action anywhere from two minutes to 1 hour after application of the perfume.

Commonly used scents are lavender and rose scents.

Base Notes

The base notes appear when the middle notes dissipate. The function of the base notes is to bring depth and solidity to a perfume. The base notes are often made up of fixatives. They appear during the 'dry-down' period of a perfume.

Commonly used scents are musk scents.

Basic Types of Perfume

Alcohol is usually used as a liquid base for perfume. Basically the ratio of alcohol added to scented perfume concentrates will determine what the final concoction will be labeled as.

1. Parfum

This is also called 'extract' or 'extrait' and is totally undiluted. It contains the highest concentration of perfume oil which is between 15% to 30%! It can last for approximately six hours or longer and one drop is all it takes!

2. Eau de Parfum (EDP)

This consists of 7% to 15% of perfume concentrates. This is the most popular and common form of perfume.

3. Eau de Toilette (EDT)

This has around 1% to 6% of perfume concentrates. This is a lightly scented perfume which was supposed to used as a refreshing body splash to help people wake up in the morning! (Wake up INDEED!)

4. Eau de Cologne (EDC)

This has around 3% to 5% of perfume concentrates. This is mostly used after a bath.

5. After shave

This has the lowest perfume oil concentration of about 0.5% to 2%. This is used by men as a salve after shaving.

Interesting links:
Perfume Manufacturing
Perfume Glossary
Perfume Basics

To Scent or Not To Scent (Part 2)

The History of Perfume

The art of making perfumes originated from ancient Egypt. But it was the Romans and the Arabs who developed and further refined the art of perfumery.

Though it was the Egyptians who were the first to discover perfume, Tapputi was the first ever recorded chemist from Mesopotamia who was a perfume maker.

In India, much of its fragrances were incensed based.

In Arab and Persia, through steam distillation was perfumery established and made popular.

Perfumery was made famous in the West by the Hungarians. The Hungary Water was the first ever alcohol-based perfume.

*France quickly became the European center of perfume and cosmetic manufacture. Cultivation of flowers for their perfume essence, which had begun in the 14th century, grew into a major industry in the south of France. During the Renaissance period, perfumes were used primarily by royalty and the wealthy to mask body odors resulting from the sanitary practices of the day. Partly due to this patronage, the western perfumery industry was created. Perfume enjoyed huge success during the 17th century. Perfumed gloves became popular in France and in 1656, the guild of glove and perfume-makers was established. Perfumers were also known to create poisons; for instance, a French duchess was murdered when a perfume/poison was rubbed into her gloves and was slowly absorbed into her skin.

Perfume came into its own when Louis XV came to the throne in the 18th century. His court was called "le cour parfumee" (the perfumed court). Madame de Pompadour ordered generous supplies of perfume, and King Louis demanded a different fragrance for his apartment everyday. The court of Louis XIV was even named due to the scents which were applied daily not only to the skin but also to clothing, fans and furniture. Perfume substituted for soap and water. The use of perfume in France grew steadily. By the 18th century, aromatic plants were being grown in the Grasse region of France to provide the growing perfume industry with raw materials. Even today, France remains the centre of the European perfume design and trade.

After Napolean came to power, exorbitant expenditures for perfume continued. Two quarts of violet cologne were delivered to him each week, and he is said to have used sixty bottles of double extract of jasmine every month. Josephine de Beauharnais had stronger perfume preferences. She was partial to musk, and she used so much that sixty years after her death the scent still lingered in her boudoir.*

* Taken from 'history of perfume'.

In England, perfume reached its peak during the reigns of Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth I. It was said that all public places were scented during the reign of Queen Elizabeth as she had a very sharp nose which could not tolerate bad smells!

For more history on perfume, click here.

To Scent or Not To Scent (Part 1)

Per Fumus

Perfume has been been known to exist since the early civilizations.

The word 'perfume' is a derivative of the Latin word 'per fumus' which means through smoke. The people in ancient Egypt were the earliest people to discover perfume. And the use of perfume was in the form of burning of incense and aromatic herbs which were used in religious services. And the most frequently used ingredients were aromatic gums, grasses, frankincense and myrrh which were gathered from trees.

Kyphi, was a famous burnt incense. It is a very odorous mixture which comprised of cinnamon, cassia bark, the rhizomes of cypress and sweet flag, cedar, myrrh, frankincense, Matsic tree, juniper berry, seeds of fenugreek, pistachio and edible shoveler duck. These ingredients were crushed and mixed together with wine, raisins and honey. Not only was it used as an incense, it was also used as a potion and as a salve.

Perfume

In today's world, perfume is basically a mixture of essential oils or aroma compounds, fixatives and solvents used to give the human body, objects, and living spaces a 'pleasant smell'!

1. Essential Oils

Essential oil is a concentrated hydrophobic liquid which contains volatile aroma compounds from plants. Essential oils are also known as volatile oils, ethereal oils/aetherolea or just simply, 'oil of' the plant which they were extracted from. An example would be 'oil of lavender'.

Essential oil carries a distinctive scent or characteristic of the plant.

Generally, essential oils are extracted by distillation. Solvent extraction is another method in which the essential oil is extracted.

Essential oils are used in perfumes, cosmetics, soaps, for flavoring food and drinks, adding scents to incenses and household cleaning products. It is also widely used in aromatherapy.

2. Aroma Compounds

An aroma compound is a chemical compound that has an odour or smell. Aroma compounds are also known as odorant, aroma, fragrance or flavour.

In order for a chemical compound to have a smell or odour, the compound needs to be volatile in order for it to be transported to the sense of smell (olfactory system) in the upper part of the nose and it needs to be of a sufficiently high concentration in order to interact with one or more of the olfactory receptors.

Aroma compounds are found in food, wine, spices, perfume, fragrance oils and essential oils. Aroma compounds form biochemically during the ripening of fruits. Aroma compounds also form during the fermentation of wine.

Aroma compounds are also added to dangerous odourless substance such as propane, natural gas and hydrogen as a warning.

Many aroma compounds play a significant role in the production of flavourants, which are used in the service industry to flavour, improve, and basically used to increase the appeal of their products.

3. Fixatives

Fixatives are natural or synthetic substances used to reduce the evaporation rate and improve stability when added to more volatile components. By doing so, the final product will be able to last longer while the original fragrance is maintained. They are indispensable commodities to the perfume industry.

Some examples are ambergris, sandalwood, musk, vetiver, orris root and bergamot orange.

a. Ambergris


Ambergris is a solid waxy, flammable substance of a dull gray or blackish colour which is produced by the sperm whale's digestive system and is excreted out by regurgitation. A freshly produced ambergris has a marine, fecal ordour. But as it ages, it acquires a sweet, earthy scent which can be likened to the fragrance of rubbing alcohol (isopropanol) without the vaporous chemical astringency.

In the early times, ambergris is used as a fixative in perfumery. Because of the vulnerability of the sperm whale species, it was banned in the 1970s in many countries. Today, ambroxan, a synthetic which emulates the natural ambergris is used widely in perfumery.

b. Sandalwood


Sandalwood essential oils provide perfumes with a striking wood base note. But as a fixative, it is used in smaller proportions to enhance the head space of other fragrances.

Sandalwood trees are endangered due to over-harvesting, thus causing the natural oil to be very costly. Hence, Isobornyl cyclohexanol (ICBH) is the synthetic fragrance chemical produced as an alternative (and very much cheaper compared) to the natural sandalwood.

c. Musk

Musk is a class of aromatic substances used as base notes in perfumery. Musk was originally extracted from the gland of the male musk deer. Natural musk was used extensively in perfumery until the late 19th century. Musk is described to be earthy and woody and akin to the ordour of baby's skin.

Angelica archangelica or Abelmoschus moschatus are plants that produce musky smelling macrocyclic lactone compounds. These compounds are widely used in perfumery as substitutes for animal musk or to alter the smell of mixture of other musks.

Since the musk deer is an endangered species and obtaining musk from plants are costly, nearly all musk fragrance used in perfumery today are synthetic, which is sometimes called the 'white musk'.

Synthetic musk can be divided into three major classes:
* Aromatic nitro musks
* Polycyclic musk compounds
* Macrocyclic musk compounds

The aromatic nitro musks and polycyclic musk compounds are used extensively in the cosmetics and detergent industry. However, these two are known to contain carcinogenic properties. Thus, macrocyclic musk is deemed to be a better replacement.

An example of a polycyclic musk is the galaxolide which is found in laundry detergent to mask the smell of detergent chemicals. Galaxolide is also the aroma compound in laundry detergents which gives the washed laundry the 'clean scent'. Consumers today have been brainwashed to expect and demand that laundry detergents produce this 'clean scent'.

To read more on galaxolide, click here.

d. Vetiver

Due to its excellent fixative properties, vetiver is widely used in perfumes. It is contained in almost all of western perfumes (Lavania). Vetiver is a more common ingredient in men's fragrances such as Eau de Sauvage, Zizan by Ormonde Jayne and Vetiver by Occitaine.

e. Orris Root

Once upon a time, the Orris root was very important in the western herbal medicine. Today, it is mainly used in the perfumery as a fixative and base note. It is also widely used as a fixative in potpourri. The smell of Orris root is akin to the smell of violets.

f. Bergamot Orange

This fruit is not grown for consumption. The Bergamot peel is used in perfumery as it is able to combine itself with an array of scents to form a bouquet of aromas which complement each other. Many of the perfumes which are produced contain the bergamot essential oil.

An interesting thing to note is that the Bergamot contains extremely large amount of polyphenols!


4. Solvents

A solvent is a liquid, solid or gas which dissolves another solid, liquid or gaseous solute, resulting in a solution that is soluble in a certain volume of solvent at a specified temperature. The common solvent which is used in perfume is ethanol.

Mall-Culture Society

The thing with living in Malaysia is that we are a mall-culture-society. We hardly have parks. And when we do have, it is either situated at one end of the world where driving is the only option (and where you have to brave the traffic jams in order to reach them). OR they are packed with people to the point you feel like sardines in a can. And if it's not packed, it is a damn hazy day! We have haze perpetually all year round now. Here, have a look at this picture below and then tell me how can we go out for a 'picnic' at the park to enjoy the 'fresh' air.

Malls. They are places which sell everything from nail clippers to crook-locks for cars. They have spas, nail spas, slimming centres, cinemas, furniture outlets, hair saloons, gyms and supermarkets (which sell raw food too!). Some even have clinics in them. Not forgetting pet shops! Oh and yes, how could I not mention this. Eateries. They are EVERYWHERE! We Malaysians love to eat. It is second nature to us. Food ranging from Chinese to fast food to Western to Indian to many, many, MANY more.

So what point am I trying to drive home today, you asked? Imagine the smell each and every mall has. The onslaught of perfumes, food smells, and chemicals all mixed up in one lethal combination. Even a person with a non-smelling nose would be able to smell it. Smells so pungent that it could cover the smell of rotting corpses!

Let me paint for you the smells that are in malls the moment you step into one.

The air in the parking lot itself would be filled with the smell of petrol. You will also smell the smell of deep-fried recycled oil blasting from the vents above. And nicotine from smokers  hanging out at the parking lots. And then when you walk into the lobby, one would be blasted with fragrance from the air fresheners trying to mask the smell of petrol and deep-fried-oil which had seeped in. Once you are inside the mall, there will be MORE fragrance coming from each and every shop (in an attempt to lure customers into their nice-smelling shops), perfume wafting from the perfume shop; new plastic smells from shops which sells things that are made of plastic; chemical, paint and industrial smells from the vacant shop lots which are undergoing major renovations; incense from the incense shop; food smell of all kinds and last but not least powerful, cleaning detergents from the restrooms. AND air-fresherners too!

On top of all these smells, there are air cons that do not function properly. Many are blocked with dust and grime. And I can smell the musty smells that are emitting from the air-cons and sometimes even mold.

Going to malls is equivalent to walking into a 'fragrance-induced-nuclear-bomb'. Patrons are bombarded by fragrance, ordour, chemical smells of all kinds and food smells. A combination of these smells can make a well person quite sick. And end up in anaphylactic shock for people like me. Oh did I forget to mention the perfumes, colognes, hair-creams, clothing detergents and softeners that waft pass me all the time?

And outside the malls we have 'The Haze'.

My ENT shared with me that he has a patient who is a Caucasian female living in Malaysia who upon breathing in the smell of seafood dropped dead from an anaphactic attack. And the market was about 500 meters away! She was lucky that her husband was with her. He jabbed her with the Epi-Pen and rushed her to the hospital. She survived. All by breathing in something she could not smell.

So we wonder why Malaysians are falling sick more than often. Why children's asthma is on the rise. Why allergies are on the rise. Why a lot of people are constantly bugged by the 'allergy-cough'. Why we have sinusitis.

I say it's the hazards of smells!